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Properly caring for handmade leather shoes ensures they mold to your feet and develop a unique patina over time. The routine is simple: clean them with a soft brush, condition the leather every few weeks to keep it supple, let them air-dry naturally when wet, and use cedar shoe trees between wears to maintain their shape.
Mens Barefoot Shoes - Brown Full-Grain Leather, Zero Drop Wide Toe Barefoot, Artisan Made
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What leather are your shoes made of?
Understanding the material is the first step to proper care. Our shoes are handmade from genuine leather, smooth calf, suede and nubuck. We use vegetable-tanned leathers, a traditional, chrome-free process that results in a material that is durable and breathable. The natural fibers in the leather allow it to regulate temperature and, most importantly, conform to the unique shape of your foot over time. This is why a quality handmade shoe becomes more comfortable with each wear.
However, these natural fibers need moisture to remain flexible. When leather loses its natural oils, it can become stiff and prone to cracking. A good care routine is focused on gently cleaning the leather, keeping it nourished, and allowing it to rest. This approach applies to our entire leather collection, from boots to oxfords.
Mens Barefoot Shoes - Brown Full-Grain Leather, Zero Drop Wide Toe Barefoot, Artisan Made
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What you need
You do not need an extensive kit to maintain your leather shoes. A few basic tools will cover almost all care needs for various leather types.
- Soft horsehair brush: Essential for brushing off daily dust and dirt without scratching the leather. Also used for buffing after conditioning.
- Leather conditioner: A quality cream or wax-based conditioner nourishes the leather, keeping it flexible and preventing cracks. Choose a neutral, colorless conditioner for most applications.
- Soft cotton cloths: Use clean, soft cloths for applying conditioner and for buffing the shoes to a soft shine.
- Cedar shoe trees: These are crucial for helping shoes keep their shape, smoothing out creases, and absorbing moisture and odor from the lining after wear.
- Suede and nubuck care kit: If you own suede shoes or nubuck shoes, a dedicated kit with a special brush and an eraser for stains is necessary.
Mens Barefoot Shoes - Brown Full-Grain Leather, Zero Drop Wide Toe Barefoot, Artisan Made
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Five steps: clean, dry, condition, shoe trees, rotate
A consistent routine built on five simple steps will preserve the health and appearance of your leather shoes.
Step 1: Clean
Always clean your shoes before conditioning or polishing. Applying products over a layer of dust and grit grinds abrasive particles into the leather's surface. Start by using a horsehair brush to remove any loose dirt. For more persistent marks, use a soft cloth that is slightly damp, not wet. Avoid using abrasive sponges, harsh detergents, or any cleaners containing alcohol, as these will strip the leather of its essential oils.
Step 2: Dry naturally
If your shoes get wet from rain or sweat, resist the urge to use direct heat to speed up the drying process. Never place leather shoes near a radiator, in direct sunlight, or use a hairdryer on them. Intense, fast heat causes leather to dry out too quickly, leading to shrinkage and cracking. Instead, let them air-dry slowly at room temperature. To help them maintain their shape and draw moisture from the inside, you can stuff the toes with newspaper or, even better, insert cedar shoe trees.
Step 3: Condition
Conditioning is like moisturizing for leather. A good leather conditioner replenishes the oils that are lost through normal wear and exposure to the elements. This keeps the leather soft, flexible, and resistant to cracking. First, ensure the shoes are clean and completely dry. Apply a small, pea-sized amount of conditioner to a soft cloth and work it into the leather using gentle, circular motions. Apply a thin, even layer across the entire shoe. Let the conditioner absorb for about 15-20 minutes, then use a clean cloth or a horsehair brush to buff off any excess and bring out a natural luster. As a general rule, condition shoes every two to four weeks if you wear them regularly. If the leather starts to look dull or feel stiff, it is time to condition it.
Step 4: Use Shoe Trees
If you add one extra step to your routine, make it this one. Cedar shoe trees are the best way to extend the life of your shoes for three key reasons. They help the shoe maintain its original shape and smooth out the creases that form across the vamp from walking. They absorb moisture and odor from the shoe's interior. Finally, the cedar imparts a fresh, pleasant scent. For the best results, insert the shoe trees within an hour of taking your shoes off, while the leather is still warm and pliable.
Step 5: Rotate
One of the most effective ways to preserve your shoes costs nothing: do not wear the same pair two days in a row. Leather absorbs a significant amount of moisture from your feet throughout the day. It needs a full 24 hours to dry out completely. If you wear the same pair daily, that moisture becomes trapped, which can cause the leather to degrade more quickly. By rotating between two or three pairs of shoes, you give each pair adequate time to rest, dry, and recover. This simple habit can significantly increase their lifespan.
Care by material: smooth calf / suede / nubuck / shearling slippers
Different types of leather require slightly different care methods.
Smooth Calf Leather
This is the most common material for dress shoes and boots. Follow the five-step routine of cleaning, drying, conditioning, using shoe trees, and rotating. A neutral cream conditioner is suitable for all colors. For deeper scuffs on darker leather, a matching colored cream can be used sparingly.
Suede
Suede has a soft, napped surface that is sensitive to moisture and stains. Never use cream conditioners on suede, as they will flatten the nap and create dark spots. Use a dedicated suede brush to regularly clean the surface and lift the nap. A suede eraser can remove small, dry stains. For more comprehensive care, see our full shoe care guide.
Nubuck
Like suede, nubuck has a soft, velvety texture, but its nap is much finer. It is made by sanding the outer grain side of the leather. Care is similar to suede: use a nubuck-specific brush to clean it and avoid all liquid or cream conditioners. An eraser can handle light marks.
Shearling Slippers
Our slippers, like the popular women's shearling slippers and men's shearling slippers, feature a calf leather upper with a genuine sheepskin lining. The exterior calf leather should be cared for just like any smooth leather shoe: brush it regularly and condition it as needed. For the interior sheepskin lining, spot-clean with a damp cloth and a mild soap if necessary. Never submerge the slippers in water or put them in a washing machine. Always let them air-dry completely.
Rain, snow and salt stains
If your shoes get caught in the rain, wipe off excess water with a dry cloth as soon as possible. Insert shoe trees to help them hold their shape and let them air-dry for at least 24 hours, away from any heat source. Once they are fully dry, apply a coat of leather conditioner to replenish the oils that the water may have stripped away.
Salt stains from winter sidewalks can be particularly damaging. As soon as you notice white salt lines, mix a solution of one part white vinegar to four parts water. Dampen a clean cloth in the solution and gently wipe the stains. You may need to repeat this a few times. Let the shoes air-dry completely, then apply a thorough coat of conditioner, as salt aggressively draws moisture from leather.
Storing shoes off-season
For long-term storage, first ensure the shoes are clean and well-conditioned. This prevents dirt from setting in and the leather from drying out while stored. Insert cedar shoe trees to maintain their shape. Place the shoes in breathable fabric dust bags and store them in a cool, dry place with good air circulation. Avoid plastic boxes or bags, which can trap moisture and lead to mold. If storing for more than a few months, it is a good idea to take them out and apply a light coat of conditioner every 3-4 months.
Breaking in handmade leather
A new pair of handmade leather shoes might feel a bit firm at first. This is normal. The leather has structure and is meant to soften and mold to your foot over time, creating a custom fit. To ease the break-in process, wear them for short periods around the house for the first few days. Wearing thicker cotton socks can help cushion your feet and gently stretch the leather. Be patient for the first one to two weeks as the initial firmness gives way to lasting, personalized comfort. This process is part of the journey with all quality leather footwear, including barefoot leather shoes.
FAQ
How often should I condition leather shoes?
For shoes worn regularly, conditioning every two to four weeks is a good practice. If you live in a very dry climate or wear the pair daily, you may need to do it more often. If the leather starts to look dull or feel stiff, it is time for a conditioning treatment.
Do I really need shoe trees?
While not mandatory, they are highly recommended. Cedar shoe trees make a significant difference in a shoe's longevity by absorbing moisture, maintaining the shoe's shape, and preventing deep creases from setting in. They are one of the best investments for your footwear.
How do I break in handmade leather shoes?
Wear them for short intervals at first, preferably indoors with thick socks. Gradually increase the duration over one to two weeks. This allows the leather to soften and conform to the shape of your foot without causing discomfort. For more tips, read our guide on breaking in new barefoot shoes, and if you are new to flat shoes, our transition guide.
What is the best conditioner for light-colored leather?
For cream, white, or other pale leathers, always use a neutral or colorless leather conditioner. Tinted creams or polishes can alter or stain the light color. A neutral conditioner will nourish the leather without changing its original shade.
How do I handle scratches on smooth calf leather?
For minor surface scratches, often you can simply rub the area gently with a clean finger. The warmth and friction can redistribute the waxes in the leather and make the scratch disappear. For slightly deeper scratches, apply a small amount of neutral leather conditioner and buff the area.
Can I use mink oil on my shoes?
We advise against using mink oil or other heavy, greasy oils on our vegetable-tanned leather. These products can over-saturate the leather and darken it permanently. Stick to lighter, cream-based conditioners.
How do I clean the inside of my shoes and reduce odor?
To clean the lining, you can lightly mist the inside with a solution of equal parts water and white vinegar, then wipe it with a clean cloth. Let the shoes air-dry completely. For persistent odor, sprinkle baking soda inside, let it sit overnight, and then vacuum it out thoroughly.
What should I do if my leather shoes get soaked in rain?
A little rain will not ruin them. The key is to dry them correctly. Wipe off surface water, stuff them with newspaper or insert cedar shoe trees, and let them air-dry at room temperature. Never use a heater or direct sun. Once fully dry, apply conditioner to restore the leather's oils.
Written by Mesut Bozkurt · Updated 2 October 2026
